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The Guide to Recognizing an Authentic Hermès Bag

Hermès bags, especially iconic models like the Birkin and Kelly, are among the most coveted luxury accessories in the world. However, due to their high value, they are also among the most counterfeited. Follow our guide to avoid turning what seems like a great deal into a costly mistake!

If you’re looking to purchase an Hermès bag and want to ensure its authenticity, here are the key details to check:

1. The Logo and Branding

The first thing to inspect is the embossed stamp on the front of the bag. The branding should read “Hermès Paris Made in France” over three lines, with the text getting progressively smaller with each line. In authentic models, the logo has evenly spaced letters with uniform spacing between lines.

On the other hand, most counterfeit Hermès bags have a printed rather than embossed inscription. Often, the letters are inconsistent in font, size, or tilt, and the spacing may be irregular. Also, check the accent on the second “E” in HERMÈS—if it’s too faint or missing, that’s a red flag.

Lot 13. Hermès. Black epsom leather Kelly Sellier bag, horse shoe special order, palladium hardware. Starting bid € 7.000.

2. Leather and Materials

One of the most important indicators of authenticity is the leather and materials used. Hermès only uses premium-quality leathers such as Togo, Clemence, Epsom, or exotic skins like crocodile and alligator. The leather should feel soft yet sturdy to the touch. If it feels stiff, plastic-like, or too rigid, it’s likely a fake.

For exotic leathers, the scales on genuine crocodile and alligator bags will always be unique. If the bag’s texture appears too uniform and perfectly symmetrical, it’s probably counterfeit—since natural skins always have slight irregularities.

Another key factor is the smell. An authentic Hermès bag has a natural leather scent, never gluey or plastic smell.

Lot 20. Hermès. Fauve crocodile porosus mat leather Birkin bag, 2008, alladium hardware. Starting bid € 25.000

3. The Stitching

Hermès bags are hand-stitched using the saddle stitch technique. These stitches have a slight upward slant and, while they are individually made, you may notice occasional double stitches. If you find stitching that is messy, perfectly straight, or overly precise (which is typical of machine-made industrial stitching), then the bag may be fake.

Lot 17. Hermès – Prussian blue taurillon clémence leather Birkin, 2008, palladium hardware. Starting bid € 7.000

4. The Craftsman’s Mark

Each authentic Hermès bag has an identification code stamped inside, near the handle attachment. This code includes the year of production, represented by a letter inside a square or circle, and the initials of the artisan who crafted the bag. If the code is missing or does not follow this format, it is a sign of counterfeiting.

5. The Hardware and Metal Details

The hardware of an authentic Hermès bag—including locks, clasps, and metal feet—is made of gold-plated or palladium-plated brass. These pieces should feel heavy and solid, never light or flimsy. Additionally, the lock and key should have matching serial numbers.

6. The Shape and Structure

Hermès bags hold their shape even after years of use. If a bag appears floppy, unbalanced, or lacks a well-defined structure, it could be a fake.

Lotto 9. Aubergine taurillon clémence leather Birkin, 2007, palladium hardware. Starting bid € 7.000

7. The Dust Bag and Box

An authentic Hermès dust bag is made from high-quality cotton and features the Hermès logo printed in brown. Counterfeit versions often use cheaper fabrics and may have logos that are too dark, faded, or poorly printed.

The original Hermès box is orange with a slightly grainy texture and a perfectly printed logo. If the box’s color is too bright or feels too lightweight, it might be a fake.

Recognizing an authentic Hermès bag requires a keen eye for detail. If you have any doubts, it’s always best to consult luxury authentication experts or professional authentication services.

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